Eunos Chump

So, it's 2015 here in the future, and I'm still driving rusty cars - my 1989 self would have been so disappointed (though perhaps not totally surprised).   The rusty car in question is the Rover - it failed it's MOT yesterday on a couple of holes in the sills. It's fixed now, cost £150, while the hopeless handbrake was just within tolerance (18% effective, minimum is 16%), and the worn strut-top bearing didn't get a mention at all.  I'm quite happy with that. In other news, I'm doing a training course this week - virtually, from home :)  So there's no dragging myself to the station every morning, no taking part in the polite battle to get on the Waterloo & City line, and I don't even have to get dressed.  I just sit in front of the computer with headphones on all day.  Unfortunately, this is also what I do in the evenings so the days just kind of merge into each other.  I've not been further than the MOT station (about 3 miles away

After much procrastination, I got my finger out and fitted the new rear upper suspension arms on the 75 this weekend. It wasn't too bad a job, and everything came apart without serious issue. This is the procedure I used; the Haynes manual suggests you need to remove the anti-roll bar and disconnect the bottom suspension arms, but that means disturbing more rusty bolts so balls to that: Preparation: give all the nuts/bolts a good dosing of WD40, etc, preferably a day beforehand. With the car jacked up and rear wheels removed, loosen off the bolts at the inner end of the upper suspension arms.  These go into a captive nut, and are accessed via holes in the subframe.  It's a 15mm bolt - access is a bit awkward, and it's torqued to 100NM so you'll need space to get a breaker bar onto it.   Next, I removed the nut from the other end of the arm, where it meets the hub. That's 18mm,and it needed a good scrub with a wire brush as the threads were covered in shi