Drilling the Sump
I'm pleased to say the bloody sump barb is finally fitted. I found a tap and drill bit locally (at a cost of £57! Just think of all the chips I could have bought with that), and the whole job only took about an hour. Below is my home-made guide, specially made for a UK audience who don't have access to the likes of Home Depot (this is a redneck version of B&Q I believe, where I understand you can buy stove stacks, assault weapons, and Waltons-style underwear):
Stage 1: Get the Kit
I used an alloy sump barb, recommended by MX5Mad. This is a Ford Transit component, part number 6148087, and costs about £8 from Ford dealers.
To drill the hole, I used a 14mm drill bit. That's a larger diameter than most domestic drills can handle, the one I bought had a 12mm shank.
Obtain a 3/8" 18 NPT tap. Mine cost £35+VAT, but you can find them cheaper on the internet.
I fixed the barb in using JB Weld, but I reckon Chemical Metal would work just as well, and that's much easier to find in the UK.
Then you'll need some 5/8" hose for the sump end, and some 3/4" hose at the turbo end. A proper adaptor between the 2 would be a good idea, I had something laying around that did the job.
Stage 2: Get Some Access
To make room for the drill, I jacked up the front of the car, uncoupled the drop-links from the anti-roll bar, and undid the bracket for the PAS pipe (then turned it to move it out of the way). I then jacked under the wishbone to move the upper wishbone clear.
Stage 3: Pilot Hole
Stage 4: Big Hole Time
14mm drill next, again plenty of grease and a slow speed. Easy!
Stage 5: Tap the Hole
Use the tap to thread the hole. I used some cutting oil to make this easier.
Stage 6: Fix the Barb
I test-fitted the barb, then mixed up a little JB Weld and smeared it over the barb threads. Popped it back in, and tightened it until it was about 3/4 of the way in. I spread the JB Weld that had oozed out around the edges.
Finished. Purely by fluke have I managed to fit it with a downward slope, but straight and level is fine. I'm confident this will be oil-tight, unlike the oil feed which has the wrong damn thread. I'll find out tomorrow...
Stage 1: Get the Kit
I used an alloy sump barb, recommended by MX5Mad. This is a Ford Transit component, part number 6148087, and costs about £8 from Ford dealers.
To drill the hole, I used a 14mm drill bit. That's a larger diameter than most domestic drills can handle, the one I bought had a 12mm shank.
Obtain a 3/8" 18 NPT tap. Mine cost £35+VAT, but you can find them cheaper on the internet.
I fixed the barb in using JB Weld, but I reckon Chemical Metal would work just as well, and that's much easier to find in the UK.
Then you'll need some 5/8" hose for the sump end, and some 3/4" hose at the turbo end. A proper adaptor between the 2 would be a good idea, I had something laying around that did the job.
Stage 2: Get Some Access
To make room for the drill, I jacked up the front of the car, uncoupled the drop-links from the anti-roll bar, and undid the bracket for the PAS pipe (then turned it to move it out of the way). I then jacked under the wishbone to move the upper wishbone clear.
I used a 7mm drill, at a slow speed. The alloy sump is very easy to drill. Apply grease to the bit to collect as many shavings as possible. Stop as soon as you break through, the oil pick-up pipe is right behind there.
Stage 4: Big Hole Time14mm drill next, again plenty of grease and a slow speed. Easy!
Stage 5: Tap the HoleUse the tap to thread the hole. I used some cutting oil to make this easier.
Stage 6: Fix the Barb
I test-fitted the barb, then mixed up a little JB Weld and smeared it over the barb threads. Popped it back in, and tightened it until it was about 3/4 of the way in. I spread the JB Weld that had oozed out around the edges.
Finished. Purely by fluke have I managed to fit it with a downward slope, but straight and level is fine. I'm confident this will be oil-tight, unlike the oil feed which has the wrong damn thread. I'll find out tomorrow...
