LC-1 Fitment

-

Check out the cracks on that manifold! There's one on each side of the flange, and you can see daylight through them. You can also see where it was welded a few months back. I've now applied the Fireseal, it's a nice metallic filler substance and easy to apply to both sides of the cracks, it should be ready to reinstall tomorrow. Dare I make the relief cuts though? If I don't it's likely to crack again, if I do it may disintegrate. Making do and ordering a better replacement from ETD Racing might be the best solution.


I've also fitted the Innovate LC-1. The hardest part was finding somebody willing to weld the new 02 sensor bung onto the frontpipe, none of the big exhaust fitting places could do it. Eventually I was directed to a small place underneath a snooker hall where it was done while I waited.

If you're reading this for some ideas on how to fit an LC-1 to a MX5, this is how I've done it:
  • The 02 sensor is fitted at the end of the frontpipe, about 6" in front of the cat, at the 12 o'clock position. I had to remove the heatshield from the frontpipe to do this, it was rotten and rattled anyway.
  • The module itself is sitting within the PPF next to the gearbox, attached by the miracle of cable ties. It doesn't sound ideal, but hundreds of other owners have put it there. Cable ties are also used to route the cables away from the exhaust.
  • The 12v switched live is taken from the redundant blue socket under the bonnet (see photo above... yes, I've tidied the cabling since taking the picture... I'm not a complete cowboy!)
  • The primary earth (blue cable) attaches at the wiper motor, the other earths to the base of the fusebox on the right-hand wing. I'll move these to the engine block when I fit the Megasquirt.
  • The data cables come up under the gearlever gaiter, and are accessible by removing the blanking panel on the passenger side of the centre console.
  • On the driver'ss side blanking panel I've fitted the reset switch and LED. I fed the cables for these (signal wire and earth) via the grommet beneath the wiper motor. I like the look of them a lot... is it an auto destruct button? Horizon-bending NOS button? Trying to explain it's real purpose to normal people is too difficult so I've chosen the former. At least it should stop passengers complaining about my erratic driving.

Popular posts from this blog

Adding bluetooth to a Mini with Harman Kardon audio

-
Image
My R53 Cooper S has the unexpected bonus of the Harman Kardon premium audio system.  While it has impressive power and sound quality (once you discover the hidden settings ), it's firmly stuck in the past with just CD and analogue radio.  You can't change the head unit as the speakers are all wired to the 10-channel amp that lives in the boot, so new cables would need to be run from the head unit to each speaker, which would be an almighty faff. I wanted to add bluetooth so I could play my cheesy '80s music from Spotify, so bought a Grom BT3  which is a small module that plugs into the CD-changer port on the rear of the standard-fit Boost head unit.  It allows you to stream music from your mobile, and make/receive calls via the supplied microphone.  You can also buy another module that plugs into the Grom to provide DAB radio, USB, or iPod wired connections, I didn't bother with any of those, I just wanted Bananarama, loud. There are 2 versions of the Grom...
Read more

BMW E39 diesel pump replacement

-
Image
I replaced the fuel pump in the tank of the 530D yesterday.  It was quite fiddly and I couldn't find any useful guide on the internet, so I thought I'd create a quick outline of the procedure: Symptoms of failure : poor starting/cutting out when the fuel level falls to around a quarter of a tank. Cost : £42 from GSF , plus 2x 9mm petrol hose clips (the originals are not reusable). Procedure :  remove the rear seat base by pulling up sharply on it's front edge (there are a pair of spring clips holding it in place).  Beneath are 2 access panels to the tank, the pump is under the right-hand side one (behind the driver on a UK right-hand drive car).  Remove the cover and disconnect the 2 hose connections and the electrical plug (removed by pushing the locking clip sideways).  Unscrew the locking ring by gently rotating it with a hammer and chisel. Now slowly remove the fuel sender unit, noting it's orientation and how it slots into the pump assembly below ...
Read more

MINI tailgate hinge replacement

-
Image
I replaced the snapped tailgate hinge on t'old MINI today, and it wasn't too bad a job.  The design is a bit crap and they tend to seize, and then break and attempt to bonk you on the head with the tailgate.  Didn't like that. The hinge is held on by a single nut but you need to partially drop the headlining to reach it.  To do this you need to: remove the tailgate seal remove the rear seats remove the rear side panel trim on the affected side This is all covered by some helpful folks in this YouTube video.  After this, you need to remove the white C-pillar trim; it's held in by 4 plastic tabs (2 top, 2 bottom), which fit into metal clips in the body.  It needs a sharp tug but there is a fair risk of breaking the tabs, but I got away with it. Now you should be able to gently pull down the headlining, to release the clip in the centre: That should give just enough clearance to get a 13mm socket onto the nut securing the hinge.  There is...
Read more